The latest generation of prolific organic farmers in Mittelburgenland, on the Hungarian border, Stefan Wellanschitz is “a Kolfok” – someone who goes against the grain – for crafting wines of exceptional texture and expression in a region that’s known for a more heavy-handed approach.
Our foray into Austria began with Stefan Wellanschitz and his Kolfok wines. We’d heard of them years ago from friends in Europe, and made a trek to Vienna in 2022 to seek them out. During that trip, after an initial tasting with Stefan and his mum, Christine, we had the opportunity to visit the winery and vineyards in Mittelburgenland – and our love for these wines was officially solidified! As is everyone else’s, it seems; these are always some of the most exciting and anticipated wines to hit Ontario. Making wines that are delicious and nerdy in the best ways, Stefan introduced us to an incredible collective of small, organic vignerons who are leading “new wave” winemaking in Austria today.
A “Kolfok” is an unconventional thinker, or someone who goes against the grain. For so many reasons, this is such a fitting name for Stefan’s work – which he carries out while balancing a tight-rope walk between respecting the past, and creating his own thumbprint for the future. Stefan’s family, on his mum’s side, has been making wine in the town of Neckenmarkt since the early 19th Century (when this area was still Hungarian), so Stefan is the newest generation to take up the family practice. He began making the Kolfok wines over 10 years ago, when he was just 23 years old.
Stefan and his family’s cellars are still based in Neckenmarkt, which is located in Mittelburgenland – specifically, just south of Lake Neusiedl and right on the Hungarian border (we actually rode through parts of Hungary taking the train south from Vienna to go visit). There’s so much history here, and so much pride in the family’s trade. And rightfully so! This is the only organic-farming family in this part of Burgenland, which as a region is better known for big, overly oaky red wines.
Overall, Kolfok is an exploration of the micro-climates of the beautiful, undulating and varied Wellanschitz vineyards. The major stylistic departure from the regional style is the lack of oak used (and even Wellanschitz are reserved in their oak usage, also preferring to maintain more overall balance), in addition to very anaerobic winemaking practices (minimal, if any pump-overs, sur lie aging without any lees stirring) and using absolutely minimal inputs in the cellar (minimal, if any sulphur, only at bottling if it’s used). While he sometimes plays stylistically (skin contact whites, greater percentages of whole cluster, intra-berry fermentation), Stefan generally chooses to use those techniques sparingly, maintaining a more “organic” (pun intended) result rather than creating wines that speak more to stylized winemaking than a sense of place. By practicing such restraints, Stefan showcases beautiful, balanced and complex iterations of terroir throughout this region.
Currently Available from Kolfok
Configuration: (6 x 750mL)
Winery: Kolfok
Appellation: Neckenmarkt, Mittelburgenland, Austria
ABV: 12.5%
Altogether three different old vineyards on vulcanic clay are used for this wines. The oldest Grüner Veltliner vineyards from Kolfok are from 1951, a kind of family selection, graft by their own hands. This is the Burgenland type of Grüner Veltliner, always showing the character of this border region to Hungary. Very unique in it‘s style, it sometimes reminds of hungarian varieties. Whole bunch press and staying on the full lees in 500 Liter and 600 Liter barrels. For this wine Stefan uses his family’s own wood to make barrels in cooperation with the Schneckenleitner- cooperage.
‘Vulkan’ Fun Facts: These Grüner Veltliner vines are old clones (old even for when they were planted in the early ‘50s), and very specific to this localized region in Mittelburgenland. They are thicker-skinned and produce dark yellow berries that are distinctive from the typical, more neutral Grüner we might think of today. Locally, it’s identified as a “Burgenland Veltliner” type, and produces flowery-spicy nuances that are reminiscent of white Hungarian varieties.
For purchasing on license, please give us a shout at hello@theroadwineimports.ca.
Configuration: (6 x 750mL)
Winery: Kolfok
Philosophy/Farming: Organic
Appellation: Neckenmarkt, Mittelburgenland, Austria
Variety: 60% grüner veltliner, 20% welschriesling, 20% chardonnay
ABV: 12.5%
Intra! The Wild – Stefan’s chance to play while continuing to craft wines of purity and place. He makes these by de-stemming all of the grapes very gently and putting them into open-top fermenters, where they undergo an intra-berry fermentation (tiny fermentations start INSIDE of each berry, eventually becoming strong enough that they burst the berries!). Juice is free-run out, so there is absolutely minimal time in contact with the skins (he doesn’t consider this an “orange” wine). Like all of his wines, it ferments and ages in large Austrian oak barrels.
Available for delivery in early October.
For purchasing on license, please give us a shout at hello@theroadwineimports.ca.
Configuration: (6 x 750mL)
Winery: Kolfok
Philosophy/Farming: Organic
Appellation: Neckenmarkt, Mittelburgenland, Austria
Variety: 100% Blaufränkisch
ABV: 12.5%
Intra! The Wild – Stefan’s chance to play while continuing to craft wines of purity and place. He makes these by de-stemming all of the grapes very gently and putting them into open-top fermenters, where they undergo an intra-berry fermentation (tiny fermentations start INSIDE of each berry, eventually becoming strong enough that they burst the berries!). Juice is free-run out, so there is absolutely minimal time in contact with the skins. Like all of his wines, it ferments and ages in large Austrian oak barrels.
Available for delivery in early October.
For purchasing on license, please give us a shout at hello@theroadwineimports.ca.
Configuration: (12 x 750mL)
Winery: Kolfok
Philosophy/Farming: Organic
Appellation: Neckenmarkt, Mittelburgenland, Austria
Variety: A field-blend of 20 grape varieties, both red and white!
ABV: 12%
Stefan is the 6th generation vigneron of his family, who are the only organic growers in this part of Mittelburgenland. His family makes beautiful Blaufränkisch under their own eponymous label, so when Stefan branched out and began Kolfok, everyone’s interest was piqued.
One day, an elderly neighbour walked down the block and into the cellar, looking for Stefan. Over the past few years, this neighbour had been tasting the Kolfok wines as they were released, watching Stefan’s work. Since he didn’t have any children to take over his vineyard, and after getting to know the wines of Kolfok, he asked if Stefan would like to take over farming and making wine the wine from his vineyard. All he asked in return was one bottle of wine from each vintage.
What makes this story even more special is that this man’s 2-acre vineyard is one-of-a-kind. Over the course of his life’s travels, he would bring clippings back from all the wine regions he visited – from every corner of the world. Stefan wanted to pay tribute to this site by acknowledging its owner and his life: Stefan picks and ferments it all together, bringing this man’s whole life’s travels together into one bottle: All the Universe Together.
For purchasing on license, please give us a shout at hello@theroadwineimports.ca.
Configuration: (12 x 750mL)
Winery: Kolfok
Appellation: Neckenmarkt, Mittelburgenland, Austria
Philosophy/Practices: Organic
Grape Variety: Rotburger, blaufränkisch, st. laurent, syrah
ABV: 12.5%
Bright black berries, black and red currants, subtle spice & potpourri, black pepper, tons of dark mineral through the backbone.
Winemaker's notes:Mostly the Austrian variety Rotburger from different soils is used for this juicy red. Half of the grapes are destemmed, the other half whole grapes. Natural fermentation in semi-closed casks for almost 100 days. During this natural process without additives, the wine hasn‘t been moved – no punch down, no pumping. The result is a fresh, easy drinking wine, but still complex in it‘s own way. Aged for 11 month in 1200 liter barrels Austrian oak. No sulfur added at all.
Why we love it: Querschnitt means "field blend" in Stefan's Austro-Hungarian dialect, an indicator of the snapshot of his family's vineyards that are scattered around Mittelburgenland. As the only organic growers in this region, we love that we have these wines that paint with such a wide brush – and with SUCH delicious results. The Querschnitt Red is a fantastic entry point to the Kolfok wines: approachable yet statuesque, reflecting the classic side of Stefan's winemaking.
Configuration: (6 x 750mL)
Winery: Kolfok
Appellation: Neckenmarkt, Mittelburgenland, Austria
Philosophy/Farming: Organic
Variety: 100% blaufränkisch
ABV: 13%
Savoury, bright black fruit: both ripe and slightly over-ripe; tons of spice, drying herbs, purple florals, deep forest floor and cracked black and white pepper.
Winemaker's notes: Villages-level Blaufränkisch from 3 different vineyards. Two of the vineyards are a mix of gneis and schist, located up to 450 meters above sealevel, very steep and stony. The other is pure limestone on a high plateau up to 350 meters above sealevel. The combination is perfect – from schist/gneis Blaufränkisch gets warm, but still mineralic aromas, also some spice. From limestone the wine gets cold notes, elegant and subtile flavours. Aged for 19 month in 1350 litre barrels Austrian oak.
Available now!