The wines of Sophie Fidesser and her family caught our attention on a trip to Vienna in spring 2022 – these are some incredible flavours that speak to their northern Austrian roots, and beautifully embody the style of wines we are cultivating at The Road.
Fidesser is a multi-generational, biodynamic estate in Niederösterreich’s Weinvertal region — just south of the Czech border — and is being guided by the youngest vignerons at The Road: sister and brother duo, Sophie and Rudi Fidesser. The two are very much taking the reins from their parents, Gerda and Norbert, at their family’s Demeter-certified winery. Attending VieVinum in Austria, we found her sitting in the middle of a panel of experts on biodynamic farming, next to the likes of Clemens Busch and Nikki Saahs: winemaking legends and biodynamic pioneers in this part of Europe. Immediately, we knew that these were the wines to watch! Sophie is wise beyond her age, and tasting with her one-on-one, she gave us equal amounts insight and space to take in the wines that the Fidesser family grow and guide to life. They’re multi-dimensional and cerebral, taking us right to the small town of Platt, around which the wines are grown and made.
Weingut Fidesser was established by Sophie and Rudi’s grandparents, Greve and Rudolph Fidesser. It’s 13 ha of vineyards that surround the town of Platt, in western Weinviertel. Through staunch biodynamics, the family’s focus remains on a closed cycle: soil – plant – animal – human – cosmos. They have fully dispensed of any other input in the vineyards, using a combination of biodynamic preparations and very strict foliage work on the vines to promote the utmost health and balance of the vines.
By promoting the terroir of each vineyard site, and then practising minimal interventions throughout the harvest and winemaking process (as they call it, “focusing on the essentials”), the Fidessers are able to bring out the truest expression of each grape and location. Through their farming, they promote not only vine health, but the health of the flora, fauna and wild animals in each specific micro-climate that they farm.
“As vintners, we listen to the specific microclimate, the different types of soil, and the flora and fauna in the vineyards. We step back and let the terroir play the leading role.”
When harvest comes, they hand pick each variety and block at optimal ripeness, and then bring the grapes quickly into the cellar to avoid oxidation. The grapes are gently processed (sorted, pressed) and then put right into tank or barrel to begin maceration and/or fermentation. From there, they are left to rest, with minimal disruption from human hands. Significant winemaking decisions are foregone in order to create wines that are pure, balanced, and that speak intensely and clearly of their origin.
To this family, the most important cornerstone to winemaking is Origin. “The climate of the Weinviertel is Pannonian subcontinental: the dry, hot summers, the moderately cold winters with little snow are ideal for full-bodied white and red wines. The forests of the adjacent Waldviertel bring lively freshness and fruit with their cool nights.” Balance crafted by nature!
You may already be familiar with other wines from the Weinviertel, which was the first part of Austria to establish DAC regulations (like an AOP in France or the VQA here in Ontario!) which recognized the this area for defining the regional characteristics of Grüner Veltiner. The area has changed quite a bit since then and as the Fidesser’s note, soils and climactic conditions vary greatly across this, the largest wine-growing region in Austria. To this end, we are excited to see how many different local grapes are in use at this winery along with their dedication to continue to evolve their pursuit of authentic expressions.
We are excited to offer you a range of wines which capture the core of this winery, beginning with their regional Platter single varietal wines, and then expanding to the *Orbis wines – which play with unique blends and texture inspired by symmetry and balance in nature.
