Cue the Thrills, ca. 2004

The drive from Santa Barbara to San Francisco is made more beautiful than can be articulated when you wind up Highway 1 with the late morning fog that rolls off the cliffs of Big Sur. Driving up the Central Coast this way takes a bit more time given the twists, tourists and surfers along the way. But this has been a bucket list for me since the OC days – perhaps my favourite era, courtesy of the Super Furry Animals, The Perishers, Nada Surf… the list goes on. Give me a rashguard and conch necklace; I was ready to stay. Even before I discovered Nepenthe.

Big Sur is a stretch of coastline between San Louis Obispo (south) and Monterey (north) counties, known for being one of the largest contiguous, and most scenic coastlines in the United States, let alone the rest of the world. This route is notable for its dramatic views, created by the Santa Lucia Mountains that rise directly from the oceanic coastline.

In pop culture, the area was referenced extensively by Jack Kerouac (surprise), and in mid-2000’s angsty-yet-catchy songs like “Bixby Canyon Bridge” by Death Cab for Cutie and the Thrills’ “Big Sur.”

Under the umbrellas at Nepenthe, Big Sur (2018)

Our host from the evening prior, well-versed in the off-the-beaten-track jewels of California for epic food and wine lists alike, quickly blurted “Nepenthe” when we asked where to stop on our way back up the coast. I don’t actually think we finished that question before receiving his answer.

Already convinced by its view, the authenticity of the Coastal-Californian-Mexican cuisine, and the general bohemian atmosphere, Nepenthe harbours an even more interesting history than its present-day buzz lets on. The building and location were previously owned by Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth, who purchased it on a whim during a trip to the breathtaking destination in 1944.

Not convinced yet? Check out their wine list.