In conversations about “New California” and the youngest generation taking up the responsibility of representing the ever-budding and buzzed-about Central Coast, Mikey and Gina’s names are always in the mix. Together, this dynamic, thoughtful, endlessly talented husband-and-wife duo are Scar of the Sea – and making some of the brightest, most expressive wines in this part of California. Established for more than 10 years now, Scar of the Sea have become a reference point to the newest of the New Cali and have, in more recent years, entered the radar of the biggest wine critics and sommeliers around the globe – solidifying these wines as an international benchmark of new wave winemaking, more widely.
Based in San Luis Obispo (“SLO”) County, just up the coastline from Santa Barbara County, Mikey founded Scar of the Sea in 2012 with the goal of bringing to life authentic, pure flavours of California’s Central Coast. And he’s in the perfect spot: with the cold Pacific fog blanketing the coastline from Santa Barbara through Big Sur to Monterey; with the mountainous altitudes in the more northern Santa Cruz; and with the old, wizened, scraggly bush-trained vines of the Cucamonga Valley, the vineyards Mikey uses for his project create a kaleidoscope of expressions through organically- and biodynamically-farmed grapes that grow well in these landscapes. Between them all, he works with a range of grape varieties from Pinot Noir and Gamay, to Syrah, Zinfandel and Chardonnay.
True to Mikey and Gina’s philosophies, Scar of the Sea wines are made in partnership with growers along the coast who are practicing only organics and biodynamics – a testament to the farmers who are conscientious of the way their agricultural practices impact, and can even improve, the environment around them. Gina has been a guiding force here, through her own Demeter-Certified Biodynamic, and regenerative farming of the Chene Vineyard in Edna Valley, SLO (for her Lady of the Sunshine wines), and Mikey has helped to share and advocate for the same practices through each of the vineyards that contribute to Scar of the Sea. They call it “farming for the future,” a term we’ve used at The Road now on a number of occasions – and what a perfect turn of phrase. In California, the effects of climate change are felt through apocalyptic scenes each year, so for Gina, Mikey, and all of the other growers and winemakers in this state, the decision to farm holistically carries very real ramifications.
Happily, these growing practices, when done well, yield some of the best quality grapes you will ever find. The Scar of the Sea wines, including a dry cider, reflect the notion that “wine is made in the vineyard” and have set an incredible standard for quality and balance. Ultimately, Mikey and Gina both abide by decisions to harvest at the grapes’ peak acidity level – they’re not concerned about ripeness here; they know they’ll get that – which means that they are some of the earliest to pick. It also means that the grapes have slightly lower sugars (which leads to lower alcohol levels), higher freshness (acidity) and an overall more elegant approach. This early pick decision is a mainstay of high-quality New California (see Âmevive, Lady of the Sunshine, Camins 2 Dreams, etc) because it inherently pursues balance over ripeness, and leads to these more expressive, nuanced, and age-worthy wines.
At the end of the day, we simply love these wines. Gina’s own project, Lady of the Sunshine, are made in her own distinctive style and are also worth seeking out (we get TINY allocations – keep your eyes peeled!). What’s more, Mikey and Gina’s contributions to the conversation around organic, biodynamic and regenerative farming are significant, made tangible through the gorgeous wines they’re both making.